Cyprus thoughts

 

We have just returned to home base after our weeklong excursion around the mediterranean. We visited Malta and Cyprus which was very interesting to hear from different people than last year as well as some of the same. One thing that really stuck with me during this trip was being able to go into no man’s land in the Turkish occupied side of Cyprus. What we saw resembled a scene from a zombie movie. The eeriness of the abandoned hotels, homes and stores made it very eye opening to what really happened here. Visiting Cyprus you can really conceptualize the conflict between the two states that occupy it but after visiting Famagusta I have an even greater idea. This was such an eye opening experience to me because seeing even how empty this one area of the green line is, it makes you wonder what the rest of it really looks like. It is heartbreaking walking to the end of the street and seeing beach chairs and tourist trap areas that line the coast but right behind them there are remnants of homes and peoples lives. It seems like there is no consideration for the great loss that has been experienced here because people are now able to rent scooters and bikes and ride down the street but you can’t drive here. People whose homes and businesses reside here can’t go back. It was very intense to walk through here and very upsetting to think of the future of it and the tourist center that it will become once again.

Reflections on Week 2

 Early Saturday morning, we departed for the Samaria Gorge which is arguably the most challenging excursion within this program. Setting off with a quick pace and lots of jokes, we enjoyed the cooler weather which was a Godsent especially after the three day heat wave in Chania that kept us in the classroom. Time flew by and before I knew it we were already at the exit about to enjoy some orange juice and ice cream. My favorite part of the trip was seeing the pink oleanders in full bloom crossing the bridges and near the river at the end. After our break, about half of us waited for the bus to the beach and the other half left for the Ottoman Ruins. The second optional hike is a more demanding and vertical trail however, it is also a very rewarding exercise as well. Looking up to the top where the Greek flag is stationed, it looks near impossible (and pretty much feels that way the entire trek up) but as you exit the gate on the other side and look back up to ruins you just stood in, you feel a sense of pride and self-confidence having just done something physically and mentally really difficult. In the U.S. those opportunities feel few and far between unless you purposefully seek them out. 

Early into the hike

Aforementioned pink oleanders

This year, at the top, I noticed graffiti etched into the corner back of the inside structure. It is unfortunate to see a piece of history deliberately vandalized but, it is also in its own way beautiful too. It’s cool to think of all those that have traveled up before us and those that will after. Its ironic that those expressions and names on the ruins stem from a desire to not be forgotten and to leave (literally) a mark of where you’ve been yet, one day that structure will inevitably collapse and just become a memory in history itself. 

Lilli, Thalia, and I at the Ottoman Ruins

On Sunday, we had a lazy morning resting before our trip to Malta in the afternoon. Our tour of Valetta on the second day demonstrated what an amalgamation of culture Malta is through the architecture, people, and different languages as a lingua-franca. In the Lower Barrakka Gardens there is a sculpture of Enea (Aeneas) pointing to both the left and right on a bended knee symbolizing Malta as the bridge between Europe and Africa. I remember discussing countries like Malta or Cyprus in some random building of admin at Emmanuel as mere names -  Places that felt about as proximate to me as the moon. However, traveling here unlocks an ability to conceptualize the theories and policies that dominate our political science discussions. It also gives you greater perspective on how unrealistic the solutions proposed by our Western mindset are in the wider world. As political scientists, we know perspective is everything so being able to have preconceived notions and assumed comfortabilities challenged is priceless. 

Excursion week!

Goat with Goat

 This weekend was a tough one! A handful of days that showed our resistance and strength. We conquered the Samaria Gorge, some of us for the first and others for our second or third time. We kept our heads high and our spirits higher with a good pace and respect for everyone in our group. After we finished we sat for a few with a glass of orange juice (or two) and some ice cream! Then some of us gained the courage to take the goat paths up to the ottoman ruins which have such an incredible view of the ocean, surrounding islands and the beach down below. Such a rewarding experience (except when Dr. Vamvakas summoned a goat by accident…). The architecture of the structure is powerful and provides a glimpse into the past where you can imagine what life could have looked like for these people. Taking the path down shows how hard it could have been to take over because of how difficult and steep it was. After a quick dip and a lemon fanta, we were off, from the boat to the bus and back to the institute where we were greeted by the love and joy from the mamas. The next day we were all packed and heading to the Chania airport, a very quick turn around that was met with some stress and excitement. Touchdown in Malta and off to the University of Malta where we got a good meal to eat and a comfy place to sleep after a long weekend. This week will kick off our travel to both Malta and Cyprus before our return home to Alikianos for our last week. Having a great time and learning so much about this area just by getting the immersive learning experience.

The Samaria Gorge!

We've officially arrived in Malta, our second stop in our journey across the Eastern Mediterranean. We are here until Wednesday night, right next to the city of Valletta. We haven't explored quite yet, but have a tour later today to do so.

This past weekend has been difficult mentally and physically, tackling the Samaria Gorge. We hiked from the top of the path down to the bottom, stretching about 16km. It was absolutely beautiful, we got to witness a wide variety of plants and landscapes and even a few mountain goats. We started the hike at 7:15am, and continued until around 2pm.

The beginning of the hike

Of course the hike was physically taxing, but it was a big test of mental toughness as well. With the heat and length of the gorge tolling down on you, you have to find a way to keep determination and the mindset to keep going. It was hard to do so, and you learn about yourself in the process. But, what helps is when you have 12 other students alongside you doing the same thing.

Some pictures in the Gorge

After the gorge hike, we got some big glasses of fresh squeezed orange juice and some cold water. After that break and our refreshments, we then had the option to take a second hike, 2km this time. This second hike was straight up and down the side of a small mountain on goat paths, and at the top was the ruins of an Ottoman castle. I decided along with a few others to take this second hike, and it was definitely a challenge, again, both mentally and physically. The view very rewarding, looking to the South we could see the islands of Gavdos and Gavdopoula.

Photos at the top of the second hike

After walking back down on the other side, we went down to the beach to cool off after about 11 miles of walking that day. We then took the ferry back to meet the bus to get us back to Alikanas.

The Ottoman Castle Ruins

I'm looking forward to exploring Malta for the next few days and beginning to understand the geopolitical importance of this island.

- Kaitlin Wojcik

Life in Crete so Far!

Γειά σου! Hello! It's officially almost the end of the second week of the program, and time is flying by. I knew coming into this that time was going to go by quick, but living at the Institute makes me understand why it feels like I got here yesterday.

Christian, Tin, Caroline, Julia & I with Tin's new souvenir       

Our days have been packed with engaging classes, incredible meals, beautiful beaches, and rich cultural experiences. We spent our first week mostly getting used to our location, our schedule, and debating which beach we liked the most (we can never decide... there's so many).

Beaches!

After we got adjusted, our regular schedules began. Our classes have been directly connected to what we've been doing across the island and have provoked so many moments of reflection and realization of the importance of this location. We have visited a few historic sights, like the Monastery of Arkadi, the Military Museum of Chromonastiri, and the Allied War Cemetery in Suda Bay. Each site has come with new lessons about the geopolitics and history of Crete and the region as a whole. We have also been fortunate enough to receive lectures at the University of Crete regarding sustainability in the Mediterranean this past Tuesday and also the issue of immigration in and around the Mediterranean this past Wednesday. There are so many opportunities to learn; it's been incredible to be surrounded by so much history and knowledge.

Suda Bay Allied War Cemetery

      

The Monastery of Arkadi

The Military Museum of Chromonastiri

Along with learning about this island has come learning more about myself. I've learned that I really should try new things (including the snails below) because it's truly a way to enrich the experience and find new things you love. I've also learned how to become comfortable with adjusting very quickly to a brand new place and culture, and even begin to speak the language. Speaking of, we got to attend a local concert with local artists performing Cretan music, and I've realized how much I love it. We even got to get up on stage and learn how to dance to the music together. I am truly appreciating being pushed out of my comfort zone, and continue to want to do so each day.

Local concert!

New dish!

 

On our walk around the village (with a view)

This Saturday, we'll be headed to cross the gorge, which will be another push out of our comfort zones. Updates to come! We'll also be departing for Malta on Sunday... there's still so much time and learning left to do on this trip, I can't wait for all that's to come :)

- Kaitlin Wojcik

Rethymno Visit!

This Tuesday, we left the institute to visit Rethymno and take classes at the University of Crete. Throughout the past 2 days, we took a class on climate change & sustainability as well as a class on the issue of migration in the eastern Mediterranean. Both of the professors teaching these courses were very insightful and helped build upon the themes of security and energy discussed in our classes with Professor Vamvakas. We also had the opportunity to visit the Monastery of Arkadi (see pictures below!) It was so pretty, and we had time to walk around and look at the architecture, and art museum inside.

Upon our return to the hotel, we spent time in Rethymno walking around before dinner, it was so nice to visit another city in Crete. Despite the hot weather, we have gotten plenty of time at the beach to cool down. Before heading back to the institute, we were welcomed by the soldiers of the Chromonastri military museum where they gave us a tour. Everything is so beautiful and rich in culture. The locals here are so welcoming, their hospitality does not go unnoticed! Feeling grateful to be a part of such a unique and immersive academic experience abroad with such a great group of people.

Reflections on Week One (and a half)

     The first week and a half of the program is complete and it has been eventful to say the least! So far we have visited the Allied War Cemetery, Manousakis Winery, attended a local concert, traveled to Rethymno (one of the coolest places!), listened to lectures at the University of Crete, had several beach days, and still have so much to look forward to in the coming weeks.

This year, four of us (Thalia, Nick, Lilli, and I) have returned to conduct directed studies focusing on different challenges within the region such as climate change, evolving political voice, emerging electoral voting trends, and art therapy. Our classes, meetings in the evenings, and discussions together are quickly revealing just how closely intertwined these issues are and the compounding effects of seemingly inconsequential slight changes in each one. 

Returning a second year has been a unique experience. At first glance, most things are identical: the same Institute, same traditional delicious dishes for dinner, same beautiful beaches in the afternoon, same historical background and political theories in our classes -  Just inserted with a different group of students. However, when you really start to look, you’ll find the glaring differences.

This year, it is undeniably hotter - a brutal and unrelenting heat that is extremely concerning for manual laborers, taxing on limited resources (i.e. water or energy), and unforgiving for biodiversity in the region (from the panting stray animals in town to migrating aquatic sea life). Around town, there is a visible increase in rotting fruit, like molded oranges hanging on branches, and more newly planted avocado trees - a continued trend in agriculture to maximize profits for local farmers. The European Parliament election results with ND dominance waning and the increased popularity of fringe far-right parties illustrates the desire for a insular nationalistic political approach, however, even more troubling is the continued voter abstention rates. The consequences of representatives elected by only a majority of the small percentage of citizens who voted is extremely distressing. 

On one of our walks last week, Thalia and I were reflecting on these changes. The weeks are long yet the months seemingly fly by and day to day nothing changes but when you look back everything is different. For me, it feels like experiences, places, and even people are permanent and enduring tenets within my life yet, inevitably, they become unrecognizable given enough time - for better or for worse. This applies both as a young adult but I also think in a political science perspective as well. Sometimes nation-states look so far ahead on the chess board that they miss the important precedents and trends establishing day to day within society that will undoubtably shape the future. I guess its just one of those lessons that everyone has to constantly keep re-learning, à la Sisyphus and his rock.