Saturday, June 30, 2018

so long, farewell

Hey there, reader! Well, I'm going to keep this short so as to not make myself emotional (again). This entire trip has been one of the best experiences of my life. It felt so long because I feel like I've known these people forever, but so short because it doesn't feel like it should be over. I am so, so, so incredibly lucky to have had this experience. Everything from the excursions to the late night talks left a lasting impression, and I wouldn't change any of it for the world. I'm so lucky to have been here, not only in Crete, but to have done it with these people. Every single one was irreplaceable. This trip was made by the personalities. I cannot imagine it being remotely the same if even one person was missing. I am lucky. I am thankful. And I better see y'all in the fall (or preferably sooner). Signing off for the last time. (No I'm not crying again)

Fin.
XX Jess 

Send off

I'll keep this short,

As most of you depart today and tomorrow, I wish you all good luck in your travels home or on your continued adventure abroad. The last four weeks have been full of many highs and enough lows to really put in perspective the joy it has been to travel with you all.

In familiar words, let us reflect on our "roses, thorns and buds," and hopefully, see full gardens.

Fondly,
Cole

Wednesday, June 27, 2018

Avaca-do-n't

In class today it the avocado problem was brought up today. The avocado problem, in general, is that the fruit can be very profitable due to consumer trends but can be very devastating for environments who are forced to take on mass avocado plantations/orchards. Avocados are an issue of hurting local economies and devastating environments making them inhabitant due to the large demand for water that avocado trees require to sustain its life. The demand for water in the world is already too high to fulfil the needs.

Going to the mostly EU funded dam that's a short distance from the village, you can see first hand how water scarcity and water supplies have depleted. Mismanagement and capitalistic endeavours are posing and expediting the rate of the threat of water insecurity. 

Its an issue of both greed and climate change, and the issues will de address one way or another: People changing their behaviour/slowing their impact or having to leave their communities because they can not sustain life anymore. 


The program has successfully stressed these global concerns and more specifically the local concerns in Crete. 

Tuesday, June 26, 2018

The Chania Agenda:

My Secret Agenda:

One of my secret favorite activités to do in a new place is to hit up the local thrift store in each respective town or city I am in. Ever since I got my license at the not so prime age of 16, I made it an effort every time I was allowed to borrow the car and drive the state over or a few towns over. Once I was older and had my own car I made it an effort to squeeze in stopping at goodwill in Fort Meyers, Wooster, Buffalo and Scranton- to name a few. It became a game and a joke amongst my close friends. The concept was that I (Cole, a frugally expensive lady) would not have TRULY experienced and REALLY visited a place unless I found a rummage sale or checked out the local thrift store. Then I would rate the state or city based on the thrift. 

I have been lucky enough to be able to continue this practice throughout my travels.

I have had luck in France, Italy and Mainland Greece, and today I was finally able to check out a few places in Chania. I am really into thrifting for a number of reasons, but the aspect that stands out the most is the different styles of modern and vintage clothes you can find from place to place. By far the best thrift store I have been to in the US is in Brattleboro, VT that sponsors the local hospice, and then the Best thrift store abroad is this small two thrift shop in the Le Marais section of Paris.

Chania's second-hand stores were neat and quite. They most resembled the atmosphere of a thift store in the basement of a church. I was able to talk with the owner of one of the shops I stopped at and she told me about how the shop is more so popular with locals rather than tourists. Which I thought was an interesting note from the conversation. Overall, I hope I will have more opportunities to check out more second-hand shops abroad. 

confessions of a teenage drama queen

Hi howdy hello! Today was probably one of my top 5 favorite days so far. It was really great to have the opportunity to get a lecture from Dr. Kulich. One of my favorite parts of this trip has been hearing opinions from a wide range of people. We heard from professors and professionals from Cyprus, Athens, and Crete. These lectures offer a wider range of analysis than we would get if this class was taught at Emmanuel.
After classes, we headed down to Chania. Celia and I found the coolest shop that was selling all sorts of Greek-myth related items. I got to do shopping for my friends and family (and also me because treat yourself ammirite ladies). I realized how lucky I am to have so many people back home who are excited for me to come back, but I also really don't want to go back. I don't want these times to become just memories, and I cannot believe how fast this month has gone by. I really thought I would feel homesick on this trip, but because of all the amazing people here, I really haven't wanted to go home. I love it here, and I love all these people. I probably never would have met, or become friends with, most of the people here if it weren't for this trip. To me, these friendships will be one of the best takeaways of this trip. I'm really grateful for the opportunity to interact with and learn from the amazing people on this trip. Reflecting on these past few weeks, I wouldn't change a thing. Till next time.

Fin.
XX Jess

A POST

I really liked the idea of compiling a playlist of music I have been listening to this past-soon to be four weeks. Frankly, I listen to a wide variety of music but have been really embracing jazz and soul more than per usual.  (This does not reflect in the songs chosen.... Oh Well)

Here is a list of music that odds are I am listening to out and about in our travels.

St. Paul & The Broken Bones - Call Me (Live at SXSW 2014)

Bayside - Carry on (Live)

Monsieur Perine - Sabor a Mi

Saintseneca - James

Edward Sharpe & Magnetic Zeros - Truth (Live at the Big Top)

Elliott Smith - Needle in the Hay

Daughter - Youth

The Crane Wives - Safe Ship Harbored

Unit 42 - Concrete & Clay

Gina Chavez - Miles de Millias

La Santa Cecilia - Ingrata

David Bowie - Queen Bitch

Blind Pilot - One Red Thread

Klo Pelgag - Le Tronc

The Proclaimers - Over And Done With

Sigur Ros - Staralfur

Bonus!!!!! Anything by Mother Falcon or even Sharon Van Etten 

Monday, June 25, 2018

An Unexpected Encounter - 24 June 2018

During our visit to the Allied cemetery at Suda Bay, I happened upon two things I had absolutely no
idea I would find. As I walked among the white headstones, it was mentioned that there was a dog near the monument Devin was standing by. I figured I might as well go investigate. On the way over I noticed the name "MACKENZIE" etched on a headstone. It instantly caught my attention. J.D. Mackenzie was a member of the British Royal Artillery and died at the age of twenty nine. To my knowledge we have nothing in common but our shared surname and our clan, but that is still a connection nevertheless. To make things a bit more abnormal, the crest of the Royal Artillery was etched at the top of the headstone. The Tudor Crown was a part of that crest, and is also tattooed on my chest. It was a little strange, but not entirely surprising. The Mackenzies are a fairly large clan and the Tudor Crown a fairly prominent symbol.

I continued over to the monument that Devin had been looking at earlier. I discovered another abnormality. At the top of the monument was one of my family crests - the one I happen to have tattooed on my left forearm. The monument itself was dedicated to members of the Seaforth Highlanders, a regiment sponsored by Clan Mackenzie centuries ago. This, combined with the gravestone I had encountered earlier, was strange. I never expected to encounter such a thing in this cemetery, but I did. Two of the three things I had tattooed on my body were present in the cemetery, both with direct connections to my greater family. 

Interconnectedness is something that is comforting to me, and as a student of history I appreciate my connections to the past - no matter how small or unexpected they may be.   

*To note, I opted for the official spelling of Mackenzie, which uses a lower case k - not the capital K my branch of the clan uses. Not that this note matters to anyone but me, but I wanted to point out the difference. It is just one of those little things I appreciate. 

Bread is what matters

On the 20th anniversary of the acropolis museum founding, after the group visited and joined the festivities, I left the group early. My leg had been bothering me for a couple days, and I found it best to return to the hotel and rest for the busy day to come. After sleeping for 30 minutes or so, I became restless and couldn't get back to sleep. So I decided why not go down to the kiosk on the corner and grab a snack; maybe a walk around the block would clear my head. When I arrived at my destination, I found a group of young men, aging 14 or so to 25, standing around the kiosk, smoking cigarettes and enjoying the night together. I'm not exactly sure what came over me, but I asked them "do you guys speak english?" They all pointed to one man, definitely the oldest. The first thing he asked me was where I was from, "USA" I replied. A smile came over the man's face. "Ahhhh I love Hillary!" He said with a big smile. I chuckled to myself, If only. I asked where he was from, "Pakistan, a few kilometers from Hyderabad." He finished by saying, "I love my country, but I'm glad to be here, praise be to Allah." The expression on his face was almost one of mourning. Happy to be here, but sad to be away from home and his family. You could see the battlefield of emotions that took place behind his eyes."what brings you to Athens?" I had to ask, but I knew the answer. "Work my friend, work, there is more opportunity here, that's why I have left." I stood there, thinking, "uhhhh Greece? The land of financial opportunities?" (No of‐ fense to Greece or my fellow hellenes). "Why Greece?" I asked, "aren't you better off in a more northern country?" He laughed and agreed. "Yes, but for now, it works. I make enough money to send home for my mother and my siblings to eat, that is enough. That is why we are all here." He looked to his friend who wouldn't have been able to drive in the United States. My heart sank down into my feet. "How did you get here?" The man chuckled slightly, "it's best if we don't speak of it" he said shaking his head. Now my heart was broken. I just wanted to hug these guys. We spoke more of our homes and families. This mans journey to feed his family began about a year and a half ago, when his father died. It was his duty to feed his family, and he had absolutely zero room to fail, failure meant his little brothers would not eat. I was rattled. When my father passed, I said "see you later" to my mom and sister and hopped a plane to Crete to study and to get over my loss and keep moving. He didn't get an oppor‐ tunity like this, not the same ballpark, same zip code, not even the same hemisphere. He didn't have time to mourn. He didn't have the chance to be with his family and grieve a man he said meant more then anything to him. I felt like a real piece of shit. We then spoke of the perception of Islam in the western world. "We do not want to hurt anyone." He said almost crying. "Yes, there are violent people, but it's those people who create the image for all of us. We are just common people, trying to eat." Now he was visibly emotional. I can't imagine what sort of discrimination he has faced. In a world where children are detained and separated at borders, or ships full of refugees are pushed away, I have to wonder, is our standard of living so worth preserving that we have sacrifice our humanity? We use more, and want more then anyone. Yes it is hard to take a step back in terms of living conditions, but I wish we could find a balance. I really hope I can follow what Jessica Gavin said the other day, "we just go back to our lives and don't do anything. I hope I can do something, anything.

Saturday, June 23, 2018

a day to relax??

Howdy! So today we returned from Athens. Instead of keeping up with our busy schedule, we just took the day to go to the beach. Being at the beach all day made me realize just how busy we've been these past few weeks. It's kind of crazy to think about how much we've done in such a short time. It's also crazy to think of how the program is almost over. The meeting to go over the schedule for these next few days was bittersweet. We have a lot of good stuff planned, but the days are going to go by so quickly. I'm not ready for the program to be over because I've met so many amazing people and seen places I never thought I'd get to go to. I really did not think I would be able to go on this trip, yet here I am! Life is funny like that I guess. Anyway, I'm very grateful for this experience. Till next time!

Fin.
XX Jess

Wednesday, June 20, 2018

The Cypriot Experience

A few days ago, we took a trip to Cyprus to focus on the issues that the state are facing and to participate in a simulation. This was with students from the University of Nicosia (UNic). We discussed current issues on defining maritime boarders in the Eastern Mediterranean, and rights to the hydrocarbon fields that have recently been discovered. It fun to hear how people from the United States and from UNic approached the issues in the eyes of a different state. The discussion was very engaging, and I feel like it helped me learn how to better my verbal and debate skills.

We also visited Cyprus’ National Struggle Museum on the first day. To be honest, the vibe of it was off-setting and filled with nationalism. The entire message of the museum was idolizing how much the men fought against the British for their freedom and never recognized the fact that they were the vigilantes of the time. There were tons of war propaganda filling the museum and it never recognized any women during the time. The one exception was one pregnant woman, who had six children, and was shot during the war protecting the men. I feel like there were definitely more women affected by this war of independence, but only the one was mentioned. Also, the overall message of the museum was on how much the Cyprians struggled, how brutal the British were to them at the time of this war, and why someone should be proud to be a Cypriot.

The museum seemed incredibly nationalistic, but after considering that all states portray their nation’s history in this way, it makes sense why. It’s a way of creating the nation’s identity and making the population proud to be a part of the state or remember why their state is important. One of the points brought up by someone was considering it in the context of how American history is portrayed in the United States. First, we revere a bell with a crack in it and think it’s the coolest thing ever. Second, we get stuck in the Bill of Rights and how all the amendments define us and that it is wrong for anyone to think outside of them. Third, there is the freedom trail in Boston. Finally, we have giant monuments of American leaders to never forget (i.e. Lincoln Memorial, Mount Rushmore, Paul Revere, etc.). These are all examples of nationalism in America. At the same time, however, it is what creates our identity in the United States and makes us Americans.

Even though the museum was off-setting, the rest of the time in Cyprus was eye-opening. During the day, we had lectures at UNic and learned about energy and the issues with maritime boarders. One of the days, we took a walk around the city and went up to the UN check points that separated the occupied north from the south. (Side note: Nicosia is the only capitol that is divided by a border from occupation.) Then, a few days later, we had crossed the border. There was a lot of evidence in the occupied area of trying to create a new Turkish-Cypriot identity, but it was definitely excessive. There was a giant flag colored into the mountain with a phrase colored into the mountain that would light up at night. Also, the number of monuments that were scattered around the area was crazy and all portrayed struggle and fighting for what you want to get (disregarding who or what might be in your way). 

I could not talk about trip to the occupied north without mentioning the ghost town, Varosha, that we went to. We were not allowed to take photos or walk through it, but just a mere look at it from the outside was enough to tell what had happened. Someone had described the view as if it were the abandoned and militarized Miami of Cyprus. There were holes in the side of the building from all the military assult that had taken place there. People were kicked out without warning and never allowed to take their things; we looked up the photos online and found that there were nice cars from the late 60s left there and abandoned airplanes and bedrooms. Also, one of the things that really upset me was the fact that on one side of the fence, there was a ghost town, and the other side had a beach with a floating bar and people laughing and playing in as if there was nothing behind them. Also, you could take pictures on the beach as long as you were facing the sea. The second you turned around, the guard that is constantly on patrol would yell at you. This experience in the occupied North was heart-breaking because of how terrible the history of it is and how it is a state divided because of misconception and brutality. It was also very eye-opening and necessary to have in order to truly understand the issues that Cyprus faces.

A piece of my heart will always be given to Cyprus. I learned more from experience in my short, four-days there, than I had in a very long time. I cannot wait to return to the state for the BIOTECH program and remember why I really enjoyed Cyprus. 

Tuesday, June 19, 2018

Playlist by the Youth for Dr. Vamvakas

Songs the youth aka me listen to for my elder father:

Boston Rappers:
No Bells - Cousin Stizz 
Lambo - Cousin Stizz 
Cell Phone - Michael Christmas
Michael Cera - Michael Christmas

Cousin Stizz and Michael Christmas represent two very different sides of the Greater Boston Area youth. Coming from Fields Corner, Stizz represents the gritty side of the underground with songs about doing bad things. Christmas has a much goofier, sort of Berklee-an vibe to his music, mostly talking about being nerdy and overweight much of his life.

Hip with the kids (I haven't listened to a lot of new mainstream music but here is what we got):
Look At Me - XXXTENTACION
 - one of the premier singles by emerging and now deceased rapper XXX, this song was the first of many that some would argue blended elements of Rap and Hardcore music, mixing the stylistic choices and flows of more modern rap with the raw aggression often related in the post-punk era. Last night XXX was gunned down in florida, leaving many music fans at a strange moral crossroad as while he was the victim of a murder, he was also a notoriously awful person, most notably an abuser and homophobe. While I personally do not enjoy his music, I also have to recognize that while many are coming to criticize his mourners for not taking a moral stand, most musicians throughout history, and people for that matter, that are universally mourned are pretty awful people.

Story of Adidon - Pusha-T
Another moral conflict - Pusha T, a rapper (one I do like) who made a career out of cocaine cowboy stories of selling crack in Virginia Beach, VA took aim at other millionare Drake for not raising his child. Lowkey problematic. Other notable songs by Pusha come from his time in Clipse - mainly Grindin' but Virginia and What Happened to That Boy are also great.

Tay K - The Race
Tay K is a young man who has become a Martyr in the rap world as he was just sentenced to double life for homicide shortly after the success of his song about beating the law after committing homicide.

Kanye, Jay Z and Beyonce, as well as NAS also just released albums but we are moving on.

Heres my favorites to listen to here:
***Seniorita Music Video . - Vince Staples***
Kick Out The Jams - MC5 . - great radical band
Obstacle 2 - Interpol *relaxin*top*
Cop Killer - John Maus (actually a Dr. of Political Science) 
Disorder - Joy Divison
Norf Norf - Vince Staples *top notch***
Banned in DC - Bad Brains 
Rejoice - Julien Baker *sad*
Irene - Beach house *relaxing*
Wish That You Were Mine - The Manhattans *old school men who cheatin songz* 
We No Who U R - Nick Cave and the Bad Seeds (Very good also listen to Up Jumped The Devil, much angrier) 
Kill for Peace - the Fugs *late 60s/early 70s
Hard Times - Baby Huey and the Babysitters *oldschool*

Blue Skies - Floyd Dixon
2:45 AM - Elliott Smith *sad*
The World Is Mine - Shinobi (My actual family) https://shinobiband.bandcamp.com/
We Only Come Out at Night - The Smashing Pumpkins (Dr.Silver era)
This Must Be the Place - Talking Heads (baby v likes them)
Agony - Yung Lean *sad*
Rubbin Off The Paint - YBN Nahmir
Maybe - The Chantels *old* 
Loud Places - Jamie XX

Cont.
Come Out Ye Black and Tans - The Wolfe Tones
TUI - Trapped Under Ice (hardcore) also see Believe
Thuggin - Freddie Gibbs - his song Shame samples The Manhattans song above
This Charming Man - The Smiths
Angel of Death - Slayer
9.24.13 - Action Broson




The Cypriot Situation


The Cypriot Situation

Background we know: Cyprus was invaded by the Turkish military in response to an attempted Coup de ta by the Greek Military Junta, which resulted in the collapse of the Junta and the establishment on a Faux-turkish state taking up half the island of Crete. 
What particularly struck me about our time in Cyprus was the intensity of Ethno-nationalism on both sides of the fence, when neither side is actually the territory of the nation they are representing. The vast majority of the flags we saw were either Greek flags or Turkish flags, but the whole time we were on the island of Cyprus. While I understand that it is both the Turkish state attempting to establish their dominance on the island, and the ethnically greek-cypriots attempting to combat that dominance by over-representing a heritage they take pride in, it was very odd to be in a country that seemed like it did not have an precise identity of its over except for the identity formed while trying to figure out their identity ie the EOKA worship at the museum. 
While I know that that is an oversimplification of a very complicated issue, to me it sort of boiled down to an identity formed through resistance, which I cannot blame them for as I probably would have done the same thing. It is just sad to see an island with so much history and potential get annexed and driven apart, partially evacuated and permanently scarred just because it was an unfortunate pawn in a game of geopolitical chess. It begs the question of what would a sovereign and whole Cyprus have looked like, where would it be and how powerful could it have been? 


x

I am not sure.
Devin

A Chat of home


When we were visiting the UK's territory, I was able to sit down and talk with one of the employees of the base. The man's name was Euros. We spoke for a long time. We ended our conversation with a handshake and him signing his name in my travel journal. Our conversation was diverse in topic, but one aspect of our conversation stands out to me, and that was the emphasis on speaking about our hometowns. Euros, a man in his early 50's, has lived a short distance from where we spoke his entire life. He declared that he would never leave, for that he loved the sea and his home. Euros had a type of affection for his hometown that I believe is rare to find in the United States. I have met very few people who plan on residing in the community they were raised in. 

Reflecting on my own hometown, I can remember the resentment of the community well. It was common to bash my hometown. At parties, school or even practice, the topic of escaping our town was a requisite of conversation. It was a common ground in high school and remains a common ground in college. These trite phrases of our teenage angst were never truly outgrown. It's strange. Examining the relationship between people and their communities, I do believe that Americans have a very clear distinguishable difference in their attitudes compared to certain countries in Europe. Not only in the conversation I had with Euros, but with several other individuals I have met over the past month have a certain tenderness in their heart for their home. 


Samaria


Hiking through the Samaria gorge was breath taking. Being from Texas, especially the Dallas area, I have not been exposed to many geographical features like towering mountains. Even though I have an arthritic ankle that decided to swell up, the experience was exhilarating to say the least.  What really struck me was the seasonality of water flow. When we were near the bottom of the gorge, there was a picturesque stream that is used as drinking water. During the winter months when rainfall is heavier, the gorge is impassable. When we walked through, it was barely a trickle of water. That may not be a shock to most, especially if you are from a mountainous region with decent precipitation. However, when I looked at the walls of the gorge and saw the high water mark, it really struck me as to how climate and weather effect a region, in this case drinking water. Hiking through with a group as big as we were, was an exercise in cooperation all in itself. When I started to slow due to my ankle, I was surprised by the actions of the group as a whole. I was assuming I would just sort of lag behind and allow everyone to carry on at their pace. However, people came to help carry my bag, find me a walking stick, and slow down to keep my pace. While we all are very different in many ways, the cohesiveness of the group was shown to me on our excursion through a pristine example of nature. The abandoned village that lays half way through the train really stuck out to me. With the absence of inhabitants, nature had begun to reclaim the structures. Floors had been replaced by grace, roofs disintegrated away, and all the metal fixings had eroded to almost nothing. Getting to the village and beach at the end of the 15 kilometer hike was the sweetest reward. Needless to say, I don’t think I will have many opportunities at excursions quit like that one. I will always remember the soaring hights of the surrounding mountains and the deep depths of the river bed, but most of all it was the people that really made this experience special.

Monday, June 18, 2018

Old City Jazz


 One night, I was able to attend a show at a small jazz venue called Sarah's Jazz Club. Located in the old city of Nicosia, on a narrow street full of night life. I have been to a few jazz shows before, but it was really a memorable experience to attend a Cypriote jazz show. The singer was a very passionate Cypriote woman, who commanded a very large stage presence. Playing a mix of jazz and blues classics, the band and singer where absolutely riveting. After the show while calling taxi, I struck up a conversation with one of the supporters of the club. He was very insightful as to the jazz and music culture, not just in Nicosia but the world at large. I have found that music in general plays a very intimate role in the lives of people in the eastern Mediterranean. Much like the coffee shop I experienced in Chania, the was a special personality to the music and attitude about music. To the people who frequent this jazz club, there is no greater joy then spending as much time as possible, sitting quietly and partaking in the music. As I have no heard a couple time, from multiple people, there is no way to recreate these nights. Each one is unique and the only way to experience it is to be there. There are no regular bands or any real profit made by the musicians. The fulfillment they receive from the music and audience is all the payment they need.  Sarah’s jazz club will stay in my mind for a while

Reflections on a Divided Island - 18 June 2018

Cyprus was a fever dream, to say the least. I had a wonderful time in the island but some things just didn't sit well with me. It was a surreal experience in many ways. I am glad to have traveled with those I did and am very appreciative of the conversations we had. It helped me process the whole experience. 

As an American, Cyprus was weird. The concept of borders has never really been all that real to me. Virtually all of my travel - with the exception of a few excursions to Canada, a trip to England, and this program - has been within the United States. There's no real indication that you cross state borders with the exception of a "New Jersey Welcomed You!" sign. No checkpoints, no fences, nothing. Even within the EU I haven't really experienced borders yet. Due to agreements between the US Government and the EU, I don't need a visa to travel within the EU in the capacity that I do and once I'm inside, I'm in. There's the occasional passport check and the opportunity for a new stamp, but that's still really not related to borders. When getting off of a flight I'm not crossing the physical border - I'm already within the country's borders. I haven't crossed over physical borders within the EU and the only time I have before was a train ride on a family trip to Canada, and even that wasn't real. A passport check and a few questions is all it took for me, as an American citizen, to gain entry. Crossing between the two administrations on Cyprus was the first time I had ever really crossed physical borders. The privilege I enjoy as an American citizen was no more. Considering that the US maintains no presence in Northern Cyprus, the agreements that exist between the US and the EU and Canada are unthinkable. Driving up to a fence, waiting in a long line, having someone come on the bus to check our passports, and then driving it across a border, but a UN buffer zone, was a very new thing for me. I am a major advocate for the free movement of people, and if anything this only strengthened that belief. Crossing that buffer zone and entering the other side of the island was a very raw experience. I didn't even cross into a real state. The Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus is an unrecognized state and is more an extension of Turkey more than anything else. Yet that was a hard, defined, real, tangible border that exists within one sovereign state. Like I said, as an American, Cyprus was weird. 

Crossing into the TRNC felt like going back in time. The Republic of Cyprus is so westernized. I swear I saw more Kentucky Fried Chickens in Nicosia than I ever have in New Jersey. Almost every major western company maintained a heavy presence there. There were also a lot of westerners in the Republic. It looked and felt very modern. The same is not true of Northern Cyprus. Neither of those variables were present in the North. There were some western companies, to my surprise, but their presence was minimal. They weren't present in Famagusta, the city we visited. There was the occasional western tour group, but it seemed as though they were traveling through a museum - not a city. I felt as though Northern Cyprus was stuck in 1974. The buildings looked it, the lack of development showed it. Going from South to North was very Cold War-esq. If it was significantly colder with fewer palm trees, it would have very much felt as though we had driven from West Germany to East Germany. But I felt as though this was worse. There is no ongoing Cold War. The people of Cyprus are suffocated by Turkey's ambitions. They are suffocated by the game played by international actors. Such is life at the crossroads, perhaps, but that doesn't make it right. This game is played not only by Turkey of course, the US plays it all the time. So how much can I really criticize Turkey for violating the sovereignty of a smaller state in order to advance its own interests? The US violates state sovereignty time and time again, but I find that there are times I take no real issue with it. Why? It's in the interests of my country. This is the struggle of the Republican Empire. There's a constant ideological tug-of-war going on within my mind about this. Perhaps I'm an American Imperialist because I was conditioned to be one, or perhaps that's the realist within me fending off the institutionalist that dominates my personal ideology. I don't really know, and I'm not sure I really can. Has this really answered the rhetorical question I posed earlier? Not at all. I will continue to view the US as the Fourth Rome and continue to support the advancing of our national interests. But how do we advance those interests? The institutions the US has helped create is how I believe we should go about ensuring American interests are advanced. However, at times the realist and American exceptionalist within me win out. As Americans, I feel as though it's impossible for us to even fathom the reality of Cyprus despite the fact that our country has consistently violated state sovereignty over the last century. Even experiencing it was so surreal I felt as though I was living in a simulation more than I did reality. I think it's important for the American people to be conscious of the game our government plays and the effects it can have. But perhaps if that consciousness does come to be, you'll find yourself in the same moral conundrum I find myself. 

I hope things can improve for the people of Cyprus. I hope the iron grip of regional powers witch hegemonic aspirations is lessened. I hope the Greek and Turkish communities can come together and begin the process of healing. Nicosia finds itself as the last divided capital, and Cyprus as one of the last divided states. The divisions between the societies are deep and are only getting worse as those who remember a unite Cyprus die off. There are Greek Cypriots who have never met a Turkish Cypriot and Turkish Cypriots who have never met a Greek Cypriot. This lack of personal exchange worries me, as it prevents a mutual understanding from being reached and presents a breeding ground for misconceptions. While the Annan Plan to reunify the island was ultimately rejected, things have improved. People can go between north and south now and personal exchange between the communities is now a possibility. Perhaps I am cautious optimistic about the future of Cyprus, but I can't help but wonder if the suffocating grip of geopolitics will ever retreat. Cyprus has found itself at the center of this game for nearly a thousand years, so I'm confident that will only continue as years pass. 


I can only hope I'm wrong.  

I don't have a fun title for this one, I'm sorry

Hey again! Long time no see (but for real this time). I had other blogs that I was going to post saved in my notes, but I wanted to write this one now when it's still fresh. This weekend we went to Cyprus, which was not at all what I was expecting. To be honest, I didn't know much about Cyprus until I knew I was going on this trip and decided to read up on some of the issues. Despite this, I was still very much unprepared for what we saw.
The first night in Cyprus, I was struck by how different it was from Crete. There were lots of American businesses there, like KFC and McDonald's, yet I have not seen a single American business in Crete. Also, there were far fewer mountains than around Crete.
What really struck me, however, was the experience that started when we started walking around the Old Town. I began to pick up how normalized the border between the Turkish side and Greek Cypriote side was. There was a bar called "Checkpoint Charlie" near the border and Petros said there was another restaurant called "Berlin 2 Wall" as well. It didn't sit well with me that not only did the people normalize their situation, but they also capitalized on it. It was disheartening. Additionally, before we even went to the Turkish side, I could tell it was developmentally far behind the Greek Cypriote side.
When we crossed the border, it was even more depressing to see. There was propaganda everywhere. Next to the Turkish flag on the side of the mountain, there was some writing that John translated to roughly, "How happy I am to be a Turk!" Since the international community does not recognize the legitimacy of the Turkish occupation, they have to force the people to accept the legitimacy without question.
The most harrowing experience was seeing the ghost village. Not only were we given no explanation or background on what we were seeing, but our guide got yelled at for taking photographs after telling us not to take them.
Seeing the ghost village was really hard for me. This is something I've always struggled with, even before coming here. People always say things like "never again" or "I would've done something" after a tragedy happens, but we keep letting them happen. There have been genocides since the Holocaust, and there will probably continue to be some in the future. Mr.Gorbachev tore down that Wall over 20 years ago, yet Cyprus remains occupied. It's disheartening. It makes everything seem almost fruitless. The Turkish side, should Cyprus reunify someday, will remain behind the other side, developmentally and probably education-wise as well. How long will it take them to catch up? What will the consequences be? Slavery was abolished almost 200 years ago, and on the whole, there still is not equality in the African American community. So, why do we continue to play with people's lives? How much good can the political or institutional process do? We get so stuck in theory and forget that people's lives are at stake that we end up ravaging societies in seconds and leaving them a mess that will take years to rebuild. And it doesn't stop. So how do things change? Can they change? I mean what will it take really? I've thought about this a lot since taking my first political science class. It's hard for me, and I feel like I cannot express the full extent of what I feel in words. I just feel as though there's an internal battle constantly going on in my brain with one side believing that there can be real, meaningful change and the other side believing that nothing will ever change in a meaningful way and we will continue to ruin lives to advance agendas. I don't know. I feel like I've gone on too long.
I'm really grateful we talked about it all together after we went. And I'm grateful, as always, for the people I'm here with. That's all for now.

Fin.
XX Jess

June 16: Cyprus So it goes

Shout out to Laura!

        Laura, one of the University of Nicosia coordinators has been so helpful in my attempt to better understand the Cyrpian situation. She answered all of my questions regarding Cyprian history, culture and traditions. She also gave really great insight through sharing her own experience of moving from the United States to Cyprus nearly 15 years ago. I am really glad I was able to talk to her one on one. Our conversation really helped me for the simulation and in considering my plans for after graduation. 

June 16: Cyprus So it goes

Upon our arrival in Cyprus, I didn't know much past understanding the island was the divided between Greek Cypriots and Turkish occupation. I had no idea how both communities would look like, sound like and carry itself. My first thought arriving in Cyprus was that compared to Crete, Cyprus is very European in its presentation. This is not surprising due to the United Kingdom's involvement in the region, but I still found the two regions vastly different in the industry and in the community. Staying in Nicosia, we were very close to the borderline, we could see an aggressive form of imagery on the occupied side on a hill facing the Cypriot side. The image was the flag of the widely unrecognized territory. The image of the flag was not shocking, but saddening in the sense of the fabrication of their identity and unprogressive zeitgeist mindset that they are trapped in. 

The occupied side had a feeling of melancholy. The streets were bare primarily, with scattered pockets of distractions for tourists. You could feel the disparity between the divided civilization.  


A city of concrete was all that remained, and it was accepted.

Sunday, June 17, 2018

A Successful Simulation - 17 June 2018

Today's simulation at the University of Nicosia was a great venue to refine argument and debate skills and put what we've learned into practice. After almost three weeks of lectures it was nice to engage with what we've learned hands on. 

I really enjoyed working with students from Cyprus and other European countries and learn their perspective on the issues. It allowed for perceptions and misperceptions we both have about our countries and how they conduct themselves diplomatically to be cleared up and see things from a different perspective. 

While we had a limited time that made negotiating specifics difficult, we had fantastic debates over the issues of energy security and development in the Eastern Mediterranean. It was overall a great experience. I've always been fond of simulations and look for different ways to incorporate them into my future lesson plans when I teach. This fall I'll be teaching a sixth grade class on geography in Brookline. The course also examines international institutions and basic diplomacy. After this simulation, I hope to develop and implement a simulation at the sixth grade level for the fall. They are a great way to get students engaged not only with the content learned but with one another. 

A big thank you to the University of Nicosia, Marinos, and the students who worked with us! 

Wednesday, June 13, 2018

New Pals


New Pals
My favorite thing about trips like this is how quickly you get to know people. Unlike a lot of friendships, which are spaced out over weeks of awkward interactions and half-honest conversations before you really get to know someone and be on a real honest level with them, trips like this break that awkward wall down by confining you to the same 100 ft by 100ft plot of land, closed in class room and even the same bunkbed. You spend so much time together that there isn’t really room for dishonesty or shyness, and everyone quickly gets to know people they never thought they would in ways they never thought they could.
Last year I didn’t know any of these kids names. Last week I couldn’t have told you a single significant detail about most of them. Today I feel like I know more about some of their families and lives than my own and I think that is really beautiful thing. I know that no one reads these and I don’t want to put him on blast but if you are ever bored together you ask Faarooq about his connection to the Kennedys because its the cutest shit I’ve ever heard in my life. I am excited to see how these new friendships develop over the next 3 weeks in this Hellenic Breakfast Club.

June 13th


Being sad in happy places.

One of my biggest problems in life is not being able to get thoughts out of my head. Whether it be through an inability to put my thoughts into words, or a laziness to not want to write them, I tend to keep things trapped inside until they kind of burst out. One thing that I find strange that I want to try to explain somewhere outside of my head is the idea of being sad in happy places. I love Greece. I love the natural beauty, the urban grit, the authenticity, the people and the history. I love the course material and the people we study it with. I love the hospitality of the women at the institute and the Vamvakas family. I love the sites we have seen and the adventures we have had. I love everything about this trip and this country and I still seem to sad all the time, and I don’t think I’m the only one that feels this way. 
I feel a lot of guilt spending so much money to come out here, even if I did borrow it. I feel guilty not being at home to help out my mom with my sister, or being able to see my step father or my brothers. I don’t like not being able to comfort Carina wen she has had a long day after work, or only being able to check up on my friends over the phone. I spend a lot of time looking at the water and reflecting about my life and choices I have made however many days weeks months or years ago and there is a strange weight that that carries with it that I don’t know if I will ever shake. I deleted the last two blog posts that I wrote because I thought they were too sad but I think I’ll post this one. I am having a great time and I am very thankful for this opportunity but I guess there is baggage you take with you no matter how light you travel. 

There is a song I like to listen to when I’m in nature and stuff, it is called Irene by Beach House and if you read this you should listen to it 
and also please don’t bring this up to me if you read it <3 

New Adventures


New Adventures

Having moved a lot growing up, I grew accustomed to the idea of everything being temporary. Your house one day would be someone else’s the next day, and vice versa, friends and family would come and go. Halfway through my 8th grade year when we were living in NJ, my mom left us with my dad for the weekend and bought a house in Maine with money she got in the divorce and moved while I was finishing school. In a weird way, this flipped a switch in my brain. My usual self-conscious and anxious self gained a whole new confidence to try things because I knew that even if I messed up, I would be starting my whole life over in a few weeks so it didn’t really matter. 
After I moved, this mentality never really went away, and I am thankful for that. 
The day the boats didn’t come, I was reminded how much I value that side of myself. We had the option of staying in the village for the day and relaxing on the beach like the day before or going on another hike to a new beach. Having chosen the latter turned out to be one of the best decisions I’ve made in a long time, resulting in one of the best days I have had since coming to college. We hike through sand and rough to a nearly deserted beach with one restaurant and a thousand year old church and spent the day eating and swimming in one of the prettiest and secluded places I will ever see or be, and it reminded me how important it is to adapt to new situations and opportunities. 

Unexpected Hospitality - 12 June 2018

One word not often associated with monasteries is hospitality. These religious compounds are often secluded and remote, far from major population centers. Monks are almost always associated with monasteries, and for many monks are perceived as isolated hermits who study, write, and pray in remote corners of the world. However, upon our visit to the Holy and Stavropegic Monastery of the Life-Giving-Spring Chryspogi I discovered something much different. The monastery was no longer occupied by monks, and had not been since the 1970s. Instead, an order of Orthodox nuns maintained the monastery and its grounds. In fact, it wasn't just a singular monastery, but a compound of three. Two of the three were hundreds of years old and had been fully restored by the nuns while the third was built by their order. The focal point of the newest monastery, the church, was built in approximately six months, a testament to their industrious nature. Upon our arrival we were greeted by a group of nuns who welcomed us and took us on a tour of the newest monastery, which was on top of what can best be described as a tall mountain. Part of our tour included refreshments and a snack that was freshly made for us from rose petals. The compound was very impressive and boasted breathtaking views of the landscape below, rolling groves, winding streets, and far off in the distance the city of Chania. We were able to view the items made by the sisters, many of which were intricate and beautiful.



Following our tour of the newest compound, we made our way down the winding path that took us past a number of chapels stowed away in the many caves in the surrounding area. We were lucky enough to visit three of them, each special and impressive in its own way. In total there are 17 of these hidden chapels on the property. We then happened upon the Monastery of St. Kyraiki, which was one of the old monasteries that was restored by the order. We were greeted by an older nun who spoke no English, but invited us in. Within an instant she had brought us a pitcher of water and a box of sweets, continuing the hospitality of her order. This monastery is home to an impressive conference room that sees hundreds of school children each year. They come to learn about nature and after a presentation are unleashed on the compound. One of the nuns told us that three to four groups come each week. Once again, this challenges perceptions of a monastery. Not only is it a welcoming and hospitable place, but the sisters of Chrysopigi see hundreds of visitors each week and work intimately with them to help them connect and reconnect with nature. 

It is safe to say that after our visit, my perceptions of what a monastery can be has drastically changed. 

Look Up

The walk through the gorge was incredible on many fronts. The challenge that we faced to go down the switchbacks on the face of the cliff was intimidating, yet completely doable with careful steps. Having to watch every step, however, kind of took my eyes away from the grander scope of things that was going on around me.

Once I looked up, that’s when the incredible beauty was bestowed upon my eyes. The cliff walls
soared as high as skyscrapers in cities like New York. The walls were covered in shades of browns, reds, yellows, and oranges, which looked as if the colors were painted on with a large brush in vertical streaks. The life around us was green and the trees shot up from the ground and provided us with just enough coverage from the sun to ensure that we didn’t. 


Then, about half way through the hike we walked into an old abandoned village. It was a small place; no more than 15 people could live there comfortably. It was built into the mountain side and barely affected the natural scenery around us. After eating lunch here, we continued to trek down the
mountain until we finally got to the gorgeous turquoise-blue sea that was waiting for our hot and exhausted bodies to dip in. This hike was truly incredible.

The thought to look up should also translate into the everyday life of people. There is so much beauty around us in the United States. There is no civil war and we are typically safe, there is shelter for safety and warmth, people that love you, etc. Also, the landscape around you has a particular beauty to in. For example, in Boston, there are beautiful, red-brown brick roads that pave the way to historical sites and universities in certain parts of the city. Beautiful, groomed parks scattered throughout the city. On the flip side, there are also some concerning things that deserve attention. Think about the concept in a political sense, starting with domestic (in the United States) politics. There are problems like racial and gender inequality, homophobia, the way that immigrants and refugees are typically treated, cases of poverty, equal access to education, some decisions that the government has recently made that will negatively affect us in the long run, and so much more. 

On an international scale, if you look up from where you are to see what surrounds you, you will see a beautiful earth that is important to treat right for future generations. In that world, it is important to realize the issues and take care of them. To name a few, there is climate change, food insecurity in certain regions, various energy issues, water sanitation issues, racism, issues with building sustainable economies and political systems, and war. It is imperative to learn about these issues that are affecting the world. Even though they seemingly aren’t affecting you as an individual, at a certain time, they are still important because of what it does to the sake of humanity in the long run. Moreover, who is to ever say that it won’t affect you or future generations to come?

The world is constantly changing, and it is up to us to decide whether it is for the better or worse and continue moving forward by taking care of certain issues. The only way that we will achieve this is to keep a watchful eye on what is happening around you domestically and in the world. That is why it is important to look up, see, and live in our ever-changing, beautiful world.