Tuesday, June 12, 2018

White Noise


Being the cheap-skate that I am, I didn’t pay for an international phone plan for this month in Greece. I’m normally not very connected to my phone and figured that this would not change outside of the US. The first few days on Crete I left my phone in my suitcase, tucked under my bed, as our group traveled around the island. I didn’t have service anyway, so I thought it more of a burden than an asset. However, I became sad thinking that I would never see these places again in just the way that I saw them then. That without photographs, these places would cease to exist in my life. That even if I did come back, the place would be different. Too different. And I was afraid of forgetting. For the next few days I brought my serviceless phone with me everywhere we went. I tried, in vain, to keep images in my phone that would be powerful enough to bring me back.

At the monastery, I begin to feel a tightness in my chest. A sadness and a fear that I will not be able to remember this place. I am no stranger to this feeling – it has tainted many of my memories. I stop and stare for a while. I notice the way that everything touches each other. How the hills graze the sky, the trees draw patterns across the expanse, the colors rhythmically mix and change like a flicker. The picture hums and the mountains seem so close that I am a part of them. From where I stand I can see a piece of the sea – an electric blue, an amazing blue. A blue so blue that it isn’t just a color anymore. White buildings are gathered near the blue, they sit in bunches, they enhance the landscape in a way that many buildings cannot. And all this time, I know that someday, maybe sooner than I think, certainly sooner than I wish, those hills will be a memory. They will continue to change as they live on in my mind, their colors will fade. I will be distant from them; I will forget the patterns of the trees. I won’t feel this hum that vibrates through the trees and into my bones.

I won’t remember these lines that mean something to me now. I won’t remember the smell of the flowers that line the steps down the mountain. Now I have endless combinations of words to describe what I see – but these will be whittled down until the shape of this piece is the only combination that I have. And if I read this a few months from now, or a few years, my mind will paint a beautiful, but original, piece of art. It will be mine, but it will not be true.

We don’t entirely remember places or faces; we don’t remember white noise or verbatim. But we remember the way that those things, those tiny details, those that shock or mesmerize, and still those that seem extraneous…we remember how they make us feel. And we cannot carry them with us, but we can and do carry those feelings. First names will leave our memory, then detailed accounts, then shapes, until our memories are just an extension of us. That is why when I think about the hills, I will think about how I am a part of them – and that is their gift…our gift.



Between the Mountains and the Sea


Χαίρετε! There’s nothing better than a good long hike in the mountains to end our first full week in Greece. Early in the morning we all packed into a bus and drove up to the top of the gorge at six in the morning and began what would become a five-and-a-half-hour ordeal hiking (or scaling) down the mountains of Crete in the summer sun. It was the perfect day for a hike and we could see for miles. There were sections where I felt as though I could fall off with one bad step, but it really was a highlight of the program so far. In the middle of the ten-mile hike lays the abandoned village of Samaria, which was evacuated in 1962 when the region became a national park. The gorge is home to the native kri-kri Cretan goat.

When we arrived at the end of the hike, some of the more adventurous members of the group hiked up “goat mountain” to the old Ottoman castle. The castle was built as the Ottoman Empire was in decline as an attempt to maintain control of the region. Although I could not personally make it up the mountain, which was another one hour of hiking, it certainly looked amazing from the beach below. As we ended the day on the beaches of Agia Roumeli we prepared to sail out to Sfakia to the bus. However, due to the “rough” weather, the boat was cancelled, and we were “forced” to spend another day exploring the port town’s three streets, hiking to an amazing taverna next to the one-thousand-year-old Church of Saint Paul, and yes, more time at the beach. This has been one of the best weekends I’ve had and I cant wait to see what our second week has in store.

Monday, June 11, 2018

skinty legends

Howdy! After the exciting events(!) of this weekend, I figured it would be the perfect time for a blog post to reflect on everything that has happened.
On Saturday, we woke up bright and early to head down to Samaria Gorge. While I admit I was slightly (maybe more than slightly) afraid to embark on this hike, I was also excited for this once in a lifetime opportunity. The gorge hike was beautiful, as expected. The terrain proved to be a bit more difficult than I thought, and by the end of it I felt pretty accomplished for making it all the way. While about half the group opted to continue hiking up to a castle, I decided to pass on that and took the bus to the beach instead. 
The beach and surrounding village were beautiful, however I was a bit upset to learn that the ferries for the next day were cancelled. Being the terrible packer that I am, I had no change of clothes, toothpaste, allergy pills, or hair brush, and I was fresh out of Euros. However, we made it work, and being stranded turned out to be a blessing in disguise. The next day, a group of us decided to hike to an even more remote village about an hour away. While I felt like I was dying on the hike there, the views were so beautiful and the end result was so worth it.
Our hike ended at a beachside restaurant next to Saint Paul's chapel. The food there was some of the best I've had in my life. It was one of the most authentic places I have ever seen, and I never would have visited had we not been stranded by the ferries. I cannot put into words how wonderful the day was. It made me realize how many wonderful experiences are out there waiting for me if I just make the effort to step outside my comfort zone. Despite Dr. Vamvakas's jokes, the ferry came the next day so we didn't have to hike out. Overall, I was extremely grateful for this unexpected weekend excursion. Till next time! 

Fin.
xx Jess

Graffiti and the Radicalization of Culture


Graffiti and the Radicalization of Culture
When I first came to Athens for Thucydides, I was shocked but how covered the city was in paint. It seemed like every building we passed has fifty or more tags across it. Some were personal tags or football clubs, but an overwhelming amount were political. While I was no stranger to graffiti, having tagged a lot when I was younger, I had never seen such a heavy concentration of anger as I did in the heart of Athens. Because we were studying the classics, I was not very well read about Greek politics, but seeing these walls of rebellion pushed me to read more on what exactly caused the situation Greece was in to see if there was a direct correlation. 
Surely enough, the reasons for graffiti and street art seem to be universal in every culture. It begins with some of distrust or anger with a system or an individual, or maybe just a personal desire to be heard, which is then motivated but circumstance. For many it is the suffocation of suburban life, but for the urban youth of Athens it was a collapse of institutions and a failure of leadership. When the Greek government joined the Euro, there was a great amount of skepticism but those in power assured the people it would benefit them. When the economy collapsed, they were assured again that austerity and the financial help of Northern Europe would be there savior, but again the were left alone in the dark. Every wall of Athens, regardless of the graffiti, tells the same story. It is a story of trust and of loss, which turns to anger and a futile push away from the system until the anger builds so heavy you have to paint it on a wall for everyone to see. 

The Experience of Being Stranded


On June 9th Saturday morning, we embarked on a hike of a of lifetime. The views and process of hiking the Samaria Gorge was incredible. We worked together as a team to make sure everyone made it out at the same time. 

After the hike we spent the day relaxing at the small village at the end of Samaria Gorge. It was fulfilling to successfully complete the largest gorge in Europe. The entire thing was a great bonding process and I really got to know the other students on the trip pretty well. The following morning we learned that all boats departing the village were canceled and we were stranded. Technically, we weren’t stranded because we could have hiked back up the Samaria Gorge, but it wasn’t feasible to hike back up the Gorge in that heat. Therefore, we decided to spend another night in the small village and wait for the boat the next day. 

If Saturday was fun, Sunday might have been even better. We took an hour hike to another smaller village where 1,000 year old St. Paul Church is located. We were met with great hospitality by the three villagers who lived there. We ate great food, listened to great Greek music from the 1960’s and 1970’s, and finished our excursion by swimming in the sea. 

This excursion showed me that “going with the flow” can be the better option than planning everything out in much detail. As a group, we didn’t plan much for our weekend and I am sure it would have been impossible to plan out a weekend that we had. You can’t make this stuff up. 

-John (Yanny)

A Pauline Pilgrimage - 10 June 2018

After we had gathered for breakfast and discovered our ferry out of Samaria had been cancelled due to high winds, Dr. Vamvakas proposed a hike to a 10th-century church near the village. As a student of history, it was an opportunity I could not pass up. I put my aching bones out of my mind and set off with him and eight other students. The walk over was an adventure whose highlight was the discovery of a cave. I cannot say I had ever been inside a cave before, so that was a first for me. We continued on our way across beaches, up hills, and through trees until St. Paul was finally in sight. The church was accompanied by a small oceanfront restaurant. We had a fantastic lunch and a wonderful time as a group, joined by the tavern's owner and employees. After we had finished eating it was time to visit the church. It was over a thousand years old, and at this point in my life is the oldest structure I have ever been inside. It was frankly amazing. The church was built in the middle of the 10th century after the Byzantine Empire had reestablished control over the island of Crete. While it was a small structure, it was most certainly an amazing one. It is an experience I am likely to remember for the rest of my life and it is virtually impossible to verbalize how special of a day the 10th of June was for me. I am very fortunate to have spent it with such great company and look forward to the time I get to spend with them for the rest of the trip - and beyond.




Am I a Goat Now Question Mark - June 9 2018

Following a roughly 10 mile hike that lasted approximately five and a half hours, I decided it would be a good idea to climb up a mountain almost immediately after. In addition to Dr. Vamvakas, nine of us embarked on the journey up the mountain. The path was narrow and borderline nonexistent, traversed by goats and not much else. Our hiking party split into two soon in and I managed to keep up pace with Dr. Vamvakas and his cohort for a little while longer, but eventually I fell behind. Turns out the trip up a steep goat trial after a 10 mile hike was quite exhausting. I trailed behind them, stopping and starting whenever I found shade, until they were out of view. Getting to the top of what would come to be affectionately known as goat mountain was a process, to say the very least. There were times I had to literally walk on all fours to make it up rocks where the pathway had dissipated. However, after a lot of stopping and starting I reached the top of the goat path. I passed the pine tree that had previously attacked Faarooq and made it to the Ottoman castle. The tower-esq structure was built on the top of the mountain overlooking Samaria Village and the Mediterranean Ocean. The view was unreal. After I took it in and snapped a few pictures, I plopped myself down in the doorway and promptly fell asleep. Three of the five who split off from us soon after we started made their way to the top and together as a group we took in the view and chatted about our accomplishments. All in all it was a very rewarding experience and a start to a phenomenal weekend. We made our way down goat mountain Once again I had to summon my inner-goat to make it down the steep path. Dr. Vamvakas referred to us as his "little goats" as we journeyed down, solidifying that while I was climbing up and down goat mountain I had, in fact, become a goat. At least I was one mentally.