the non-private journal entry

June 10th, I was sitting on the pier in the town Agia Roumeli. After our shared meal, I went to write for a bit and wrote the beginning of a poem from my journal. I thought I would share it because I enjoy the way it reads aloud. It's just the beginning, and it may have a sad tone, but the next portion I am working on has the "turn around/ transition" to the more light-hearted voice. 

Here is my untitled poem that I will continue eventually. Hopefully within the next few weeks (or months):

earlier I was dying in the sea,

swallowed whole with waterlogged lung,

mouthing the words of pleas and hymns of the dying breed

only in my winter bones,

i found sand and weeds of summer’s song,

left behind and polluted

it's all residue,

salt on skin,

taste in mouth

[to be continued]

Love and music

On my second visit to Chania, I experienced something so amazing that I could hardly contain myself on the bus ride home. Near the old city, tucked away between ATM machines, Pharmacy’s and gift shops, is a coffee shop. The funny thing about this coffee shop, you are not going for a coffee. Sure, you’ll probably get a beverage of one sort or the other, but the main attraction is the music. As we walked into the shop, we were greeted by 5 or 6 gentleman sitting around a table. They sat in pure jubilation, singing traditional songs passed down over generations and drinking to one another. One man starts a phrase or story and the other picks it up and continues. This musical dialogue did not stop for the entire time I sat inside. After a few moments, a bazookie appeared in my hands. Now, I have played guitar for years, but I know nothing of the bazookie. Trust me, Johnny cash sounds a lot different on this Greek instrument. It didn’t matter what it was that I played, but it was the spirit of music and new friends that made this experience truly unforgettable. The men took their time coming over to shake our hands and speak with us. The eldest appearing of the group started singing about the differences of the people of the world, and how love is universal. This shop completely supports itself through coffee and music. You never know who will be in there at any given time. To plan such an event would be difficult, to recreate it, impossible. Each day brings new voices, techniques,  and instruments.

Feeling at home in Alikianos

All of the stories and explanations in the world could not have prepared me for the true sense of humanity that I have experienced within the first few days of arriving on the Island of Crete. While I know that the world is still turning, it feels as though on this island, time stands still. The hustle and bustle of a city like Boston, is no where to be found. The village of Alikianos, situated south west of Chania, a little ways into the hills, feels like a fairy tail. It may seem small and rather impoverished at first, but that is missing the point. It is not the material possessions of consumerism that dominate peoples lives, but compassion and love, for not just family, but friends and neighbors. In Alikianos, friends and neighbors are family it would seem. I have only been in the village a short while, but it feels as though I am home. In the morning when I go for a walk or jog, every single person I see shows me a smile from ear to ear, and shouts the phrase Kali Mera, meaning, goodmorning! No matter if they are just taking a stroll or busy at work. I regret getting a overseas cellular data plan, as there is never a need to look at a screen. I haven’t had to charge my phone for 3 days (back home its about 3 times a day). As someone who is often anxious from the constant bombardment of artificial stimuli, Alikianos is a relaxing haven. While it is not all sunshine and rainbows, the people don’t sweat the small stuff. The love of everything that is human by the people of Alikianos is truly something I struggle to describe in words, it is one of those things you really have to experience yourself.

June 11, The Day I Adored

A day that I adored

On June 9th, we made our way from the top of Samaria Gorge to the small town of Agia Roumeli. The journey down took roughly five hours in total. Professor Vamvakas stressed to us that we had to stay together and that this was a team bonding exercise-for the most part we followed that instruction!

Hiking is a really important activity for me. Growing up I spent a lot of time trail running and then later in life going on solo hikes for weeks at a time of sections of the Appalachian Trail and the Pacific Coast Trail. This felt most similar to hiking in the White Mountains. The trail becomes less steep once we got to the river bed. The river is small in size and dried up in some sections. The trail along the path of the river was the most exciting part. The stones were larger and clustered together, reminding of the black rocks in Maine, where I would go sea glass “hunting” with my siblings every summer growing up. 

Once we finished the hike we were all relieved. Though we were extremely tired some of us went up to an old Ottoman ruin. I passed on that. Instead, Lindsay and I grabbed some food and just chatted the afternoon away. Later in the night, a small group of us star gazed and just talked. It was pleasant and delightful in every way.

Appreciating What's Around Us

Crete is a place that I have fallen in love with over just a few days. There are many distinct things about Chania and the surrounding towns that immediately catch my attention and puts me into deep thought: the Eastern Mediterranean Sea, the shaping of the land around me, the agriculture and vegetation, and a certain appreciation for family.

After traveling around the northwestern edge of Crete the past few days, it is crucial to mention how stunningly gorgeous the Mediterranean to the north of the island is. In addition to out course work, we have been exploring new beaches and walking by the water. Even though the beaches are different from one another, some with rockier beaches and deeper water levels than others, I was never disappointed by the beauty of the Mediterranean Sea. The water here is more vibrant than anywhere in the continental United States. Every portion is covered in gorgeous shades of blue, some spots aquamarine, some turquoise, some teal, and more. During the day, the water catches the sunlight and sparkles across the sea as far as the eye can reach. The sea is so clear that, no matter what part of it a person looks into, they can always see the bottom. Even when your feet no longer hit the seabed and all that supports you are the buoyancy of your body and the rising and sinking waves around you, the sandy floor is still visible. These characteristics send me into a state of awe every time I daze out across the sea or delve into its waters.

When facing the south, I was pleasantly greeted by a site of rolling hills in the forefront and rugged mountains in the background. Living at the institute in Alikianos at 322 feet, it was surprising to me to find out that the highest peak on Crete reaches 8058 feet (I would've guessed much smaller). However, once we were at sea level looking at these mountains, I started to realize the possibility. The mountains soar into the sky higher than any that we would ever see in New England. And to make the scene even more picturesque, the mountains' vegetation were willed with big and full green trees, with the occasional spots of gray and brown poking out where rocks lie. Adding to the beautiful landscape that surrounds us when we would drive were hundreds, maybe thousands, of trees growing fruits to support the agricultural market here. Additionally, the fruit tree that is the most prevalent here is the orange tree, especially in Alikianos, so the air always has a slight citrus breeze.

While driving around the island, evidence of high agricultural production, beautiful beaches, and soaring mountains are most definitely not the only thing that can catch someone by surprise. There are also many areas of seemingly random, unfinished, concrete (most of the time) house frames all

over the island. At first, it was just assumed that, after the economic crisis, there was not enough money to finish the construction of the houses. This, however, is not the case. These frames that lie around are houses owned by a family and built little by little throughout generations. Whenever the family has some extra money, they will add another layer onto the house that they're building. Over time, the foundation will be set, frame built, stucco put on, electricity done, and eventually there will be a finished house for all the future generations to enjoy. It is obvious here that there is a deep appreciation and feeling of importance when concerning family and what we can do not to support the future.

I'm thoroughly impressed with and enamored by Crete so far. I love it all the way from the beautiful, shining, vibrant Mediterranean Sea, to the soaring mountains. I love it because of the wonderful local agricultural production that you can get at the market each day. And I adore the fact that a family will build something for their loved ones. Something that will hopefully last a life time and will provide a necessary structure for future generations to come. I'm very happy with my experience so far in and outside of the class room, and am excited to see what else is to come.

June 7, 2018 Market

The Street Market:

Today we started the day slightly earlier than we usual. One by one we made our ways down the hill to wait for the bus to take us to downtown Chania to visit the outdoor marketing and class. The market was along the sea situated on a single road. Entering the market you would first pass by fish vendors, then vegetable and fruit sellers, and then clothing vendors. The market is busy with both locals and tourists. The vendors were relaxed; chatting amongst their fellow sellers and calling out their prices. The market is not very different from the ones I am familiar with. Specifically, it reminded me of the weekend markets in Portland, Oregon and the street market in San Cristobal de la Casas. I felt comfort in the market. I made it a point to myself to buy a few items to try out some of my newly acquired greek. For the most part, it went well. With a bit of a stumble, accompanied by some giggling I was able to buy a dress and some bananas- and only make a slight fool of myself.

I enjoyed the market due to its bustle and the liveliness of the space. To me supporting local farms and businesses is crucial. For starters, it benefits your community directly; economically and environmentally. By shopping locally you are keeping your money within your community at the same time having access to fresher organics. Buying locally allows farmers to continue their operations and make it possible for them to maintain their livelihood. (Especially in an industry that has been facing a decline of small-scale and independently owned farms) The environmental component is rooted in “food miles” and in plastic usage. Food miles refers to the number of miles your food has travelled from farm-warehouse-grocery store and finally to your plate. Food miles are essentially the number of fossil fuels consumed during transit. Shopping at local markets additionally reduces the amount of plastic consumed. Often local markets try to avoid the use of plastic and encourage the use of reusable bags. I noticed at the market the vendors did not use plastic for packaging but expect you to use a plastic bag. I asked one of the vendors if I could just put the fruit I bought in my backpack but they insisted I use a bag just in case because they primarily do not give out receipts in the market. 

I am glad that we were able to visit, I hope we will return to the area for I can go back to the market.

A Classroom with a (Venetian) View - June 7 2018

Today we were fortunate enough to have class on the second story of a harbor-side cafe at the harbor in Chania'a Old City. Chania is a breathtaking city that gushes with history at every possible crevice. As one of Europe's oldest continuously populated settlements, the layers of the port-city's history are literally built on top of one another. We took a tour of the Old City on Sunday which set the stage for what would become today's classroom. As a student of history, naturally I was instantly drawn to this setting. There is something magical about discussing the geopolitical importance of islands while looking out the window and seeing a centuries old port that was instrumental in naval dominance of the Eastern Mediterranean. Venice, a speck at the north of the Adriatic Sea, was a powerhouse with a presence on Crete from the 13th to 17th centuries. Chania and Venetian harbors like it helped the Venetians prosper. The backdrop created an intimate connection to the content, in addition to making it feel all the more real. As someone studying to be an educator, I have found myself drawn to this sort of excursion-based learning. This was a wonderful experience I hope I am able to replicate for my future students. However, I am unsure I will ever be able to provide them with a view as spectacular of that in Chania.